CHENNAI

It’s hot. But seaside hot more than urban sprawl hot. Although this is still an urban sprawl. And I’m still sweating. The city is exploding outside. I’m not sure what the festival is called, but it is a Christian one celebrating the Virgin Mary. We saw some processions in the street earlier. Then from the rooftop restaurant at the top of our hotel we sip Sandpiper beer, and the city is laid out all around us like Paris-at-our-feet, and every temple in the city seems to have its own assortment of fireworks to explode at random. Apparently Sundays are always lively in Chennai, but this one’s especially crazy.
Meena and Dipti met us at the airport- Meena’s a manager for the Shiamak organization, and Dipti is a dance instructor- they are both lovely women and immediately gracious. We stop beside the highway for fresh coconut milk; (meaning a sunworn woman holds a coconut aloft and hacks it with a machete, shoves a straw in the opening, and presto- instant refreshment). Immediately the city has a good vibe. Still Indo-crazy, near misses from rickshaws on the highway and PEOPLE EVERYWHERE, but it feels less frantic; more friendly somehow.
Later, Meena, husband Jeetu and 8-year old daughter Pravda take us across town to a popular idli joint. Idlis are rice patties you eat off banana leaves with your hands and dip in chutneys. You clean the leaf first. You eat with your right hand. You don’t get to pay because your hosts won’t let you- Meena and Jeetu tell us they are honoured to have us as their guests. You read about this kind of hospitality…